Holidays in Provence — Spending Christmas in Provence France

Celebrate the Holidays in Provence: A Best Kept Secret

Many visitors overlook the unique joy of visiting Provence during the holiday season when the region transforms into a magical wonderland. Our towns and villages sparkle with festive lights, bustling Christmas markets, and centuries-old traditions that capture the true spirit of both the season and its rich past. From culinary delights to time-honored customs, Provence is a perfect destination for families wanting to trade the overconsumption and frenzied energy of the holidays for a more earthy, rich and meaningful way to end a busy year. An added benefit is that travelers have their pick of the best villas at a much more affordable rate!

Experience True, Authentic, Local Life

In December the lavender fields take on a lovely color as they enter their hibernation period.

For much of the year Provence attracts tourists form far and wide. To visit during the holiday season is a rare opportunity to experience what life is like without tourists –get a taste of real local Provencal life as it comes alive for the holiday season. Villages hum with the Christmas markets, restaurants and boutiques are a-buzz with cozy festive atmospheres, and churches offer elaborate displays of nativity scenes.

Why Visit Provence During the Holidays?

Christmas in Provence is about more than just decorations and festivities — it’s a deeply rooted celebration of family, tradition, and regional pride. The sparkling Christmas markets, aromatic food, and heartfelt customs create a magical atmosphere that lingers long after the holiday season. Whether you are sipping mulled wine in a medieval square or marveling at handcrafted santons, hiking the trails, the holidays in Provence are an unforgettable experience filled with warmth, good food, and timeless traditions. 

The Warm Glow of Provençal Christmas Markets

Provence is known for its markets but the best kept secret are its Marchés de Noël that typically start mid December. These festive markets are held in most villages and also include unique venues such as wineries.  Charming medieval towns such as Aix-en-Provence, Avignon, and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence will have the big displays and overflow with stalls on their main boulevards filled with handcrafted gifts, local crafts, and holiday delicacies.

Provençal Christmas Traditions: The Nativity and Santons

Provence now has quite a multi cultured population yet nativity scenes (crèches) are a still a cherished tradition with the Provençal crèches going well beyond the Holy Family. Villages create entire miniature towns with santons representing bakers, farmers, shepherds, and even fishermen.

Les Santonniers still exist today and are the skilled artisans who create these special santons–small handcrafted figurines used in the elaborate nativity scenes.  Some of the best displays will be found in its many cathedrals — Aix, Apt, Arles and Avignon. The below photo was taken at the Cathedral of St. Anne in Apt.

Midnight Mass and the Shepherds’ Offering

Many villages celebrate with a midnight Mass on Christmas Eve, often accompanied by a procession known as the Pastrage. Local shepherds dressed in traditional clothing bring lambs, bread, and gifts to the church altar, reenacting the nativity story.

New Year’s Eve in Provence

Looking for something different for New Year’s Eve? Many of the region’s Michelin Starred restaurants (many of which are located in 5 star hotels) offer amazing New Years Eve packages that include extensive once in a lifetime multi-course meals. 

Enjoy Crisp and Beautiful Weather During The Holidays in Provence

During the bustle of a market day during the Provence holidays, the streets are teeming with people sitting wrapped in warm clothes soaking in the sun and a glass of wine with lunch.  We always consider November and December to be the peak of fall as most days still offer the best of Provence–that vast bright cloudless sky we all love yet during the Christmas season the days are coupled with cooler temperatures ideal for hiking and biking. The warmth of the sun still allows for the odd courageous bloom of one flower or another and the bright fall orange and red foliage is still hanging on here late in the autumn season– offering a stunning backdrop to outdoor activities.  

Traditional Christmas Foods of Provence

Provence’s rich culinary traditions shine bright during Christmas, where family meals are sacred and steeped in local customs.

Le Gros Souper (The Big Supper)

On Christmas Eve, families gather for Le Gros Souper, a meatless meal symbolizing humility and gratitude. Despite its simplicity, it’s a culinary feast filled with flavor and meaning.

Common Dishes Include:

   •   Anchoïade: A dip made with anchovies, garlic, and olive oil.

   •   Vegetable Gratins: Dishes featuring seasonal produce like squash and chard.

   •   Salt Cod (Brandade de Morue): A creamy blend of salted cod, olive oil, and potatoes.

The 13 Desserts

The highlight of any Provençal Christmas feast is the legendary treize desserts, representing Christ and the 12 apostles. The desserts are displayed on a large table and enjoyed throughout the season.

Some Essential Sweets Include:

   •   Nougat: Both white (symbolizing good) and dark (symbolizing evil).

   •   Calissons d’Aix: Candied fruit and almond confections.

   •   Fruits Secs (Dried Fruits): Figs, almonds, walnuts, and raisins.

   •   Pompe à l’Huile: An olive oil and orange blossom cake that is broken (never sliced) by hand to share with loved ones.

Rent a Luxury Villa with Only Provence

Consider getting away from the normal frenzied end of year routine by renting a luxury villa with Only Provence for your next holiday season– either for a small family or group of friends of as a venue for your larger multigenerational gathering. The rates at this time of your are incredibly reasonable making it a wonderful value. We can help you plan your stay from booking chef services as well as arranging customized activities while in the region.

A distinct collection of luxury villa rentals and real estate for sale in the South of France

- offering all comforts and amenities - pool, housekeeping, and chef services.

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Jumping the Picket Fence Light Through the Cracks

Only Provence co-founder Lydia Dean writes about their experiences raising a family, building a business in Provence, and later combining the love of travel with giving back in "Jumping the Picket Fence”. In 2021, she published “Light Through the Cracks,” a continuation of her journey, much of which has been based in Provence. Both books are available Amazon, Amazon.uk, and Amazon.Fr.